Day One (April 26, Saturday)
The May Day holidays were just around the corner, so we decided to visit our daughter Veronika, who has now been living in Helsinki for a year, working as a character designer for computer games. The visit also served as an excuse for a stroll through Helsinki, which—with its forecasted windy weather, cold, and rain—was to be our “test run” for a six-week research journey through Australia planned for a month later. Upon arriving in Finland, Veronika was still on a business trip in China, so we decided to make the most of our “free days” with an intensive exploratory wander through Helsinki.
Helsinki, the capital of Finland, is situated on the southern coast of the country along the Gulf of Finland, a part of the Baltic Sea. The city spreads across a peninsula and numerous islands, giving it a distinctive archipelagic character and a rugged coastline stretching more than 100 kilometers. Geographically, Helsinki lies at approximately 60° north latitude and 24° east longitude, placing it in a cool temperate climate influenced by the Baltic Sea.
Founded in 1550, Helsinki became the capital in the early 19th century. Today, it is a vital political, economic, cultural, and educational hub in Finland. The city boasts well-developed infrastructure, a modern transportation system, and numerous green areas—about one-third of the urban area is covered by forests and parks.
The region's landscape is shaped by glacial activity, resulting in relatively flat terrain with gentle elevations and many rocky islets. The maritime climate brings cold, snowy winters and relatively short, cool summers, with extended daylight hours especially in June and July.
Helsinki stands out as a prime example of harmony between the natural environment and urban space. Many neighborhoods are connected with nature reserves, coastal promenades, and cycling paths that promote sustainable mobility. In addition, Helsinki is renowned for its architecture, ranging from historical neoclassical buildings to modern Nordic design.
In recent decades, Helsinki has also become a major hub for innovation, technology, and education. The University of Helsinki and various research institutions attract students and scholars from around the world.
The virtual tour that follows is presented as a travelogue of a wander through Helsinki. Each described location can serve as either the starting point or a continuation of the virtual walk.
Betka and I flew directly from Brnik to Helsinki Airport, arriving around one in the afternoon on Saturday. Veronika had previously recommended we install the HSL app for public transport, which proved very useful. The airport itself has an underground train station with frequent rail connections to Helsinki Central Station. Trains depart every 10.15 minutes and, despite numerous intermediate stops, the ride to Helsinki—roughly 25 kilometers away—takes about half an hour.
In Helsinki, we rented a very comfortable and pleasant one-bedroom apartment for seven nights in the Eira district, just two hundred meters from Veronika’s place. From the Central Station, we continued on the same one-hour-valid ticket to the tram, which brought us to our apartment in ten minutes.
We dropped off our luggage, brewed a warm cup of coffee—as it was quite chilly outside—and immediately set off on a walk along the coast, following the shoreline from Eiranranta to the Vironalas harbor.
Eiranranta is a seaside area in Helsinki, located in the Eira district. It is known for its urban beach, picturesque views of the Baltic Sea and elegant architecture that reflects the historical character of this part of the city.
Eiranranta is a part of southern Helsinki, where historic villas, modern apartment buildings and seaside promenades are intertwined. The area was once known as part of the port infrastructure, but today it has been transformed into an elite residential area with direct access to the sea.
Eiranranta is known for the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) architecture that is characteristic of the Eira district. The area includes modern apartment complexes that were built between 2007 and 2008, when real estate prices were among the highest in Finland at the time.
The Eiranranta seaside promenade is popular with walkers, joggers and cyclists, as it offers beautiful views of the sea. The area also includes Eiran uimaranta, a small city beach where Helsinki residents relax by the water.
Ursinin kallio is one of the oldest parks in southern Helsinki, located along the coast of Merisatamanranta and Eiranranta. The park is named after Nils af Ursin, a professor of anatomy and physiology and former university rector who was known as an avid swimmer.
Ursinin kallio has undergone several renovations over the years, preserving its historical character while adapting it to the modern needs of visitors. One of the important changes has been the renovation of the coastal infrastructure, adding new plantings, improving accessibility and arranging a recreation area.
The park is famous for its 12-meter-high memorial to sailors and those who lost their lives at sea, which carries an eternal flame on top. In addition, the park has a skate park, a basketball court and numerous benches and walking paths that allow for a relaxed enjoyment of nature.
Ursinin kallio is not only a place for recreation, but also an important part of the city's identity. Its location on the coast offers views of the sea, making it a popular spot for residents and tourists. In addition, the park is associated with historical and cultural events, as various monuments and museums are located nearby, testifying to Helsinki's rich history.
Meripuisto is one of the most popular parks in southern Helsinki, located along the coast between Merikatu and Merisatamanranta. This park combines open green spaces, recreational areas and a beautiful view of the Baltic Sea, making it a popular destination for residents and visitors to the city.
Meripuisto was once part of the Helsinki Satamarata, a railway line that served the port. After the railway tracks were removed in the early 21st century, the area underwent a transformation into a modern city park. Today, the park is divided into functional zones that include playgrounds, walking paths and open grassy areas.
The park is known for its diverse vegetation, which includes peonies, lilies and cherry blossoms, which create a beautiful backdrop in spring. In addition, Meripuisto has a themed children's playground designed in a marine style, which emphasizes its coastal location.
Meripuisto is not only a place to relax, but also an important part of the city community. Its waterfront location makes it a popular place for walks, picnics, and even summer events that attract people of all ages. In addition, the park is associated with historical and cultural elements, as various monuments and museums are located in its vicinity.
Kaivopuisto is one of the oldest and most famous parks in Helsinki, located in the southern part of the city along the Baltic Sea coast. With its rich history, picturesque landscape and cultural significance, it is a popular destination for residents and visitors to the city.
Kaivopuisto has its roots in the 19th century, when it was founded as a place for health spa activities. The name comes from kylpylä and kaivo, which mean bathing place and well. At that time, the park was popular with the Russian aristocracy, who visited Helsinki for its health spa services.
In the 20th century, Kaivopuisto became a public park, serving as a place for recreation, socializing and cultural events. Today, it is known for its varied paths, green spaces and beautiful views of the sea.
The park covers 46 hectares and includes rocky hills, grassy areas and coastal paths. At the highest point of the park is the Ursa Observatory, which is a popular spot for stargazing.
There are cafes and restaurants along the waterfront, offering a beautiful view of the sea. In addition, the park is home to several monuments and historical buildings that testify to Helsinki's rich past.
Kaivopuisto is a popular gathering place for Helsinki residents, especially in the summer months, when concerts, festivals and picnics are held in the park. In winter, the park is famous for sledding, as its slopes offer excellent conditions for winter activities.
Kaivopuisto is also associated with diplomatic and political events, as several embassies are located in its vicinity. The park is also a popular destination for tourists who want to experience the historical and natural pulse of Helsinki.
Ehrenströmintie is a famous coastal road in Helsinki, winding along the southern part of the city, offering beautiful views of the Baltic Sea. The road is part of Kaivopuisto, one of the oldest parks in Helsinki, and has a rich history and cultural significance.
Ehrenströmintie was originally known as Läntinen Puistotie and Kaivopuiston Rantatie, before it was given its current name in 1950 in honor of Johan Albrecht Ehrenström, the architect who designed the city plan of Helsinki in 1812. The road was built as a coastal path connecting Merisatama with Eteläsatama, and has been renovated several times over the decades.
Ehrenströmintie stretches along a coastline of approximately 1.5 kilometers, which includes rocky shores, green spaces, and city promenades. It is lined with historic buildings, restaurants, and recreational areas that attract residents and tourists.
The road is popular for walking, cycling and recreation, as it offers beautiful views of the sea and access to the Merisatama harbor. In addition, Ehrenströmintie is connected to city events, as festivals, concerts and cultural events are often held along it.
Rauhanpatsas, also known as the Peace Statue, is a prominent public monument in Helsinki, symbolizing peace and friendship between Finland and the former Soviet Union. It was erected in 1968 in Kaivopuisto along the coastal road Ehrenströmintie, where it still stands today as a reminder of the historical relations between the two countries.
The monument was erected to mark the 20th anniversary of the signing of the Treaty of Friendship, Cooperation and Mutual Assistance (YYA-sopimus) between Finland and the Soviet Union. The initiative for its construction was taken by the Finnish Peace Union and was financed by a national fundraiser, in which the Finnish government, municipalities and individuals participated.
The statue is the work of Essi Renvall, one of the most important Finnish sculptors of the 20th century. It depicts a female figure symbolizing the spirit of peace returning to Earth after the war with a new, peaceful heart. The statue is 5.35 meters high, placed on a 3-meter-high red granite pedestal, which bears an inscription in Finnish, Swedish and Russian, emphasizing the importance of peaceful coexistence.
Although the statue was designed as a symbol of peace, it has provoked mixed reactions. Some saw it as political propaganda, as it was erected during the Cold War and reflected the relations between Finland and the Soviet Union at the time. Nevertheless, Rauhanpatsas has remained an important part of the public space, and continues to serve today as a reminder of the importance of peace and diplomacy.
Laivasilankatu is one of the most famous streets in Helsinki, located in Ullanlinna, a prestigious district of the city on the Baltic Sea coast. The street is known for its historic architecture, proximity to Kaivopuisto, and access to the harbor.
Laivasilankatu has historically been an important transportation route, serving as an access route to the Merisatama harbor. Its name, which translates to "Ship Harbor Street", reflects its historical role in Helsinki's maritime traffic.
In the 20th century, the area underwent an urban transformation, with residential buildings, commercial premises, and recreational areas being built. Today, Laivasilankatu is a popular location for residents and visitors, offering beautiful views of the sea and direct access to Kaivopuisto.
The street is known for its historic residential buildings, which reflect the classic Finnish architectural style. Some of the buildings on Laivasillankatu date back to the early 20th century, and have been renovated several times to preserve their cultural value.
In addition to residential buildings, the street is home to restaurants, cafes and art spaces, which contribute to the lively atmosphere of the city. The street is also popular for walks, as it is located along the coast and offers views of the island of Luoto.
Vironallas is a famous harbor area in Helsinki, located near Kauppatori, the city's central market square. The area serves as a short-term mooring port and is also the starting point for various boat trips around the Helsinki archipelago.
Vironallas has long been an important part of the city's infrastructure, providing access to the sea and connecting the city center with the surrounding islands. The area is known for its tourist boat trips, which allow visitors to explore Suomenlinna, Luoto Island and other attractions. The area has also been a key point for maritime trade throughout history, allowing ships to arrive and depart from the central port of Helsinki.
Vironallas harbor is a popular short-term mooring point, offering up to two hours of free mooring for visitors who want to explore Kauppatori and nearby attractions. It is also the starting point for private boat trips, such as RIB safaris and panoramic cruises around the Helsinki archipelago.
The area is also important for local residents, as it provides easy access to the coast, where there are walking paths, restaurants and cultural attractions. Vironallas is also a popular spot for sailors, as it offers a safe and accessible location for mooring smaller vessels.
Vironallas is located in the central part of Helsinki, where the urban environment and the natural coast meet. The area is known for its rocky shores, maritime routes and historical buildings that testify to Finland's rich maritime history. In addition, there are several nearby landmarks, such as Uspenski Cathedral, Kauppatori and the Presidential Palace, which add cultural value to the area.
Vironallas is more than just a port - it is part of the urban identity of Helsinki, as it connects historical, cultural and natural attractions. The area is popular with tourists and residents who enjoy boat trips, coastal walks and exploring the city center. In addition, the area is important for maritime festivals, as events related to sailing and maritime history are often held here.
After visiting the Vironallas harbor, we looked for a grocery store and bought food for dinner and breakfast. The next day, we had a morning trip planned to Kotka and Hamina, so we headed to bed early that evening.
Day Two (April 27, Sunday)
We had our departure from the Helsinki bus station to Hamina scheduled for 8:50 in the morning. I calculated that it would take us about 15 minutes on foot from our apartment to the bus station, so we planned to leave the apartment half an hour earlier. We bought the tickets directly through the app.
I’m very much a “morning person,” as I usually wake up at 4:45 AM, while Betka is more of a late riser. Naturally, I was up before 4 AM—Helsinki is, after all, one hour ahead of us. I waited for the first light of day and used the early morning to take a walk through the former shipyard district of Helsinki, which is now being transformed into a modern urban business and residential area.
From the apartment, located right next to the city park Tehtaanpuisto, I set off toward the coast in the morning light.
Tehtaanpuisto is a city park in Helsinki, located in the Punavuori district, next to the Mikael Agricola Church. The park is known for its historical value, green spaces and recreational opportunities. Although not one of the largest parks in the city, it has a rich history and an important role in the urban environment of Helsinki.
In the 19th century, the Tehtaanpuisto area was part of a private garden belonging to Senator Otto Wilhelm Klinkowström. The garden was open to the public and was a popular promenade for Helsinki residents. Later, the area served as a training ground for the Finnish Guard, where a shooting range was set up. In 1869, shooting practice was abolished, and the area gradually became a city park.
In the 20th century, Tehtaanpuisto was renovated several times, preserving historical elements while adding modern recreational areas. In 1935, the Mikael Agricola Church was built in the park, which is now one of the most recognizable buildings in this part of Helsinki.
Tehtaanpuisto is known for its large trees, well-maintained paths and open green spaces. The park is divided into several parts, including a children's playground, walking paths and sports fields. During the winter months, the football field is transformed into an ice rink, providing additional recreational opportunities for residents.
Tehtaanpuisto is a popular gathering place for Helsinki residents, as it offers a place to relax, recuperate and socialize. In addition, the park is associated with historical events, as important city landmarks are located in its vicinity. The park often hosts cultural events, festivals and family activities, attracting visitors of all ages.
Mikael Agricola Church is an Evangelical Lutheran church located in Punavuori, one of the oldest districts of Helsinki. It was built between 1933 and 1935, and its architecture reflects the functionalist style, which was an innovative direction in the design of religious buildings at the time.
The church is named after Mikael Agricola, a 16th-century Finnish bishop and linguist who is considered the father of the Finnish literary language. His work in translating the Bible and creating a Finnish grammar had a key influence on the development of the language and culture in the country.
The construction of the church was part of a broader urban plan for the development of Helsinki in the 20th century. The architect Lars Sonck, who designed the church, was known for his innovative approaches to the design of religious buildings. His design of Mikael Agricola Church combined minimalist lines, functionality, and monumentality, which was characteristic of the architectural style of the time.
The church is built of red brick, and its 97-meter-high bell tower is one of the most recognizable elements of the building. An interesting architectural detail is the 30-meter-long spire of the bell tower, which can be retracted into the tower when necessary. This mechanism was used during the Winter and Continuation Wars to prevent the church from serving as a landmark for Soviet bombers.
The interior of the church is spacious and bright, with a seating capacity of 850. The main nave is designed as a three-nave structure, with the side aisles being quite narrow. The altar space is raised above the rest of the church hall, creating a sense of monumentality.
Mikael Agricola Church is an important religious and cultural center of Helsinki. The church is known as the home of Tuomasmessu, a special form of worship that combines music, meditation, and community participation. In addition, the Anglican Church of Finland also operates in the church, which indicates its openness and ecumenical role.
The church hosts concerts, art exhibitions and cultural events, attracting visitors from all over the city. Its unique architecture and historical significance keep it one of the most revered religious buildings in Helsinki.
Tehtaankatu is one of the most famous streets in Helsinki, stretching from Kaivopuisto to Telakkakatu. Its name means "Factory Street", as the area was originally planned as an industrial zone, although this plan did not come to fruition.
Tehtaankatu was originally known as Paavalinkatu, as the name comes from the apostle Paul, who is depicted on the facade of St. Henrik's Cathedral. In 1887, the street was extended westward, receiving the new name Tehtaankatu, as the area was intended for industrial development. Although the plan did not come to fruition, the name remained.
In the 20th century, the street became an important political center, as the Soviet embassy was located here. During the Cold War, the term "Tehtaankatu" became synonymous with Soviet influence on Finnish politics, as key diplomatic meetings were held here. Today, the Russian embassy operates in the same building, preserving the street's political significance.
Tehtaankatu is known for its historic residential buildings, which reflect the classic Finnish architectural style. Most of the buildings were built in the early 20th century and have been renovated several times to preserve their cultural value.
In addition to residential buildings, the street is home to restaurants, cafes and art spaces, which contribute to the lively atmosphere of the city. The street is also popular for walks, as it is located along the waterfront and offers beautiful views of the sea.
Tehtaankatu is part of Helsinki's historical identity. Its proximity to Kaivopuisto provides opportunities for recreation, cultural events and socializing, while its political history attracts historical researchers and tourists.
In addition, the street is associated with historical maritime events, as the port, museums and maritime landmarks in its vicinity testify to Finland's rich maritime history.
Munkkisaari is a historically significant area in Helsinki, located on the southern coast of the city. In the past, it was known as an industrial and shipbuilding center, but today it is part of a modern urban development that includes residential, commercial and recreational areas.
Munkkisaari, also known as Munkholmen, was once an independent island connected to the mainland by the Matala salmi (Grundsundet), a narrow sea passage. In the 19th century, the island was known for its fishing huts located along the coast, and later became an important industrial area.
In the 20th century, Munkkisaari was filled in and connected to the mainland, which allowed the development of Hietalahden telakka, one of the most important shipyards in Helsinki. In 2012, the city government renamed the area Hernesaari, reflecting the wider urban development.
Today, Munkkisaari is part of a modern urban plan that includes residential buildings, commercial spaces and recreational areas. The area is known for its historic industrial buildings that have been converted into modern business and cultural centers.
Munkkisaari is well connected to the Helsinki city transport system. The area is served by tram lines, buses and pedestrian paths, which provide quick connections to the city center.
Pyhän Birgitan puisto is a seaside park in Helsinki, located along Eiranranta and part of the wider Merisatamanranta area. The park is named after Saint Birgitta, the only northern European saint who lived in the 14th century.
Pyhän Birgitan puisto was designed as part of a wider urban plan connecting Eiranranta, Telakkakatu and Merisatamanranta. Its location by the sea offers beautiful views of the open sea, making it a popular destination for walks, recreation and relaxation.
The park includes a granite seawall that protects the area from strong waves, as storm surges can reach up to five meters in height. The area is designed with natural materials, such as large natural stones used for seating and coastal paths.
The park is home to the bronze statue of Onni, an informal art installation popular with visitors. In addition, the park is home to the Birgitta Café, which offers local specialties and a beautiful view of the sea.
Pyhän Birgitan puisto is an important part of the Helsinki Coastal Path, connecting the city's parks and recreational areas. Visitors can enjoy walks, sunbathing, playing on the grass and even swimming, as the park includes a small sandy beach, which was developed at the initiative of local residents.
Munkkisaari is a historically significant area in Helsinki, located on the city’s southern coast. In the past, it was known as an industrial and shipbuilding hub, but today it has become part of a modern urban development that includes residential, commercial, and recreational spaces.
Munkkisaari, also known as Munkholmen, was once an independent island connected to the mainland via the narrow strait Matala salmi (Grundsundet). In the 19th century, the island was known for its fishermen’s cottages along the shore, and later developed into an important industrial area.
In the 20th century, Munkkisaari was filled in and connected to the mainland, enabling the development of Hietalahti Shipyard, one of the most significant shipyards in Helsinki. In 2012, the city administration renamed the area Hernesaari, reflecting a broader urban planning vision.
Today, Munkkisaari is part of a modern urban plan that includes residential buildings, office spaces, and recreational areas. The area is known for its historic industrial structures that have been repurposed into modern business and cultural centers.
Munkkisaari is well integrated into Helsinki’s public transport network. The area is served by tram lines, buses, and pedestrian paths that provide quick access to the city center.
Telakkaranta: From industrial area to modern city centre of Helsinki
Telakkaranta is one of the most interesting areas of Helsinki, which has transformed from a historic shipbuilding area into a modern city district in recent decades. It is located along Hietalahdenranta, in the immediate vicinity of the city centre, and combines residential, commercial and cultural areas.
Telakkaranta has a rich history, as the area was used for shipbuilding for more than a century. The first industrial facilities were built as early as the 19th century, when Helsinki became an important port city. The shipyard was crucial for the Finnish maritime industry, as many ships were built and maintained here.
In the early 21st century, shipbuilding activity gradually declined, which allowed for the urban transformation of the area. In 2010, an international architectural competition was organised to set the guidelines for the development of Telakkaranta. Construction began in 2017, with the first buildings, such as the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) offices, completed in 2019.
Telakkaranta combines historic industrial buildings with modern architecture, creating a unique urban landscape. Some of the red brick buildings, such as the former blacksmith shop, have been renovated and incorporated into new commercial and residential buildings.
The Helsingin Knot residential complex, which is due to be completed in 2023, will include 227 new apartments, featuring high-quality construction, large windows and modern design solutions.
Telakkaranta is not only a residential area, but also a cultural hub, with galleries, restaurants and cafés. The area is designed as an urban space by the sea, including walking paths, open squares and recreational areas.
Telakkaranta is an example of successful urban transformation, where a former industrial area is being transformed into a vibrant city district. Its design combines historical heritage, modern architecture and sustainable development, placing it among Helsinki's most innovative urban projects.
Kohottava voima / Elevating Power is a sculpture by Finnish sculptor Matti Haupt, installed in Helsinki in 1962. The sculpture depicts a man lifting the earth's sphere and is made of bronze. Haupt created the sculpture in Italy, where it was exhibited before being placed in Helsinki.
The sculpture was installed to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Suomen Kaapelitehdas cable factory (now Nokia). Its artistic design incorporates elements of 19th-century realism, with bronze surfaces treated in a way that resembles the works of Auguste Rodin. The face of the man in the sculpture bears features similar to Michelangelo's David.
Elevating Power is not just an artwork but also a symbol of progress and human strength. Its placement in a public space in Helsinki highlights the importance of art in an urban environment and its role in shaping the city's identity. The sculpture is part of Helsinki's artistic collection, managed by the Helsinki Art Museum (HAM).
The time was nearing eight o’clock, so I turned toward my apartment and chose the shortcut through Koff Park.
Čas se je bližal osmi uri, zato sem se obrnil proti stanovanju in izbral bljižnico preko parka Koff.
Sinebrychoff Park, also known as Koff Park, is one of the most popular city parks in Helsinki. It is located in the Punavuori district, near Hietalahti, and is historically associated with the Sinebrychoff family, who founded the famous Sinebrychoff brewery in the 19th century.
The park was originally a private garden designed in 1819 by Nikolai Sinebrychoff, the founder of the brewery. It was opened to the public in 1835 and quickly became a popular gathering place for Helsinki residents. In the 20th century, plans to build a park were made, but were abandoned due to public opposition, allowing the green spaces to be preserved.
Sinebrychoff Park is designed in the English landscape style, which means that it includes naturally shaped paths, diverse plants and historical elements. At the edge of the park is the Sinebrychoff residence, which today houses the Sinebrychoff Art Museum. In the southern part of the park stands an old octagonal brick tower block, which is one of the recognizable architectural elements.
Today, the park is an important green space in the densely built-up city center. It houses a children's playground, a café and public toilets, making it a popular destination for relaxation. In addition, the park is the venue for numerous cultural events, which contribute to the lively city vibe.
As eight o’clock approached, I turned toward the apartment and took a shortcut through Koff Park. Once home, I quickly sipped a cup of tea, and then Betka and I set off toward the main bus terminal. It took us about fifteen minutes at a steady pace, but the real puzzle was figuring out where the station actually was. We searched for the platform, expecting to find buses—but there were none. According to the satellite navigation, we were already there. A moment of confusion, until we discovered that the station was underground.
The bus connection from Helsinki to Hamina—a town about 150 kilometers east, near the Russian border—runs three times a day, and the journey lasts just under two hours. Ours was a double-decker bus, and thanks to the sleepy pace of a Sunday morning, nearly empty. A few fellow passengers had scattered themselves throughout its cavernous interior.
The purpose of our visit to Hamina, or more precisely Kotka, was to reunite with an old friend, Anna-Maia. We hadn’t seen each other in person for thirty-two years, yet we’d stayed in touch all this time—first through handwritten letters, later by email.
The reunion was deeply moving. There were tears, of course—what else after more than three decades? But we recognized one another instantly. The same familiar features, unchanged by time.
Anna-Maia welcomed us warmly and gave us a tour of her estate—“a modest one,” as she put it, spanning 40 hectares. Sadly, there wasn’t time to visit her seaside cabin nestled on a tiny island in the Gulf of Finland’s archipelago, as we had to catch the last bus out of Hamina at 7:30 p.m. We made the most of our time.
Her home, a classic Finnish wooden house, was both spacious and inviting, complete with several saunas. We walked through the property, enjoyed a delicious Finnish lunch, and took a short trip to Lake Merkjärvi. There, she showed us ancient dugout remains—wooden artifacts dating back to prehistory. The region is rich in archaeological remnants, with evidence of early settlement reaching far into the past.
Merkjärvi is a lake in Hamina, in the Kymenlaakso region of Finland. There are two main lakes with this name: Suuri Merkjärvi (Great Merkjärvi) and Pieni Merkjärvi (Little Merkjärvi).
Suuri Merkjärvi
Suuri Merkjärvi is a larger lake used for fishing and recreation. Its surface area is 73.5 hectares, and it is known for its good fishing opportunities. Anglers can catch trout, salmon, and other freshwater fish here.
Pieni Merkjärvi
Pieni Merkjärvi is a smaller lake located near the village of Metsäkylä and the hamlet of Pitkäkoski. Its location is 60.65773° north latitude and 27.11773° east longitude, and it lies at an altitude of 43 meters above sea level.
Both lakes are popular with locals and tourists who enjoy fishing, hiking, and natural beauty.
We made it back to Helsinki just before nine in the evening and went straight to visit Veronika, who had flown in from Hong Kong that same morning. We’d chosen to visit Anna-Maia that day to give Veronika time to rest after her long flight. But by evening, she was full of energy—and stories. Tales from her journey through China poured forth, and the hours slipped away effortlessly as we chatted and browsed through her digital slideshows. Before we knew it, night had fallen, bringing a perfect end to a day woven with memories, reunions, and a quiet thread of magic.
Day Three (April 28, Monday)
Since Veronika had a workday, we decided to explore the coastline—this time heading westward, all the way to the famous Sibelius monument. I was planning to visit my friend Andrej in Tallinn on May 1st to personally thank him for helping to provide the exclusive photograph of Laika the dog, which had been publicly displayed for the first time at the Moon exhibition in the Slovenian Museum of Natural History. I also wanted to check how long it would take to walk to the ferry terminal bound for Estonia, so Betka and I turned in that direction.
The sculpture Bad Bad Boy in Helsinki is one of the more unusual artistic works in the Finnish capital. It is a large pink sculpture depicting a mischievous-looking boy caught in the moment of urinating. The author of the sculpture is Swedish artist Tommi Toija, known for his satirical and provocative works.
The sculpture was initially part of the Helsinki Art Walk festival but later found its place near Kauppatori Square, not far from the maritime terminal. Bad Bad Boy stands about eight meters tall, and with its surprising appearance and ironic imagery, it challenges observers to reflect on social norms, shame, and direct expression in art.
Toija often explores themes of human nature and vulnerability in his work. Bad Bad Boy is an excellent example of artistic expression that plays with the audience—visitors may laugh at its childish defiance or delve into deeper symbolic meanings, such as feelings of helplessness, loneliness, and rebellion against rules.
Jätkäsaari is one of the most dynamic areas of Helsinki, which has transformed from the port area into a modern city quarter. It is located in the southern part of Helsinki, along the west coast, and is part of the Länsisatam district. Historically, Jätkäsaari was the main container port of the Finnish capital, and today it is recognizable as a lively urban area that combines residential, business and recreational areas.
Länsisatama, also known as the western port, is a passenger and freight terminal that connects Helsinki with Tallinn and other European cities. This area includes the Western Terminals 1 and 2, where Tallink and Eckerö Line operate, which allow regular ferry connections to Estonia.
The district also includes Munkkisaaren Laitura, a cruise pier, and Hernesaari hosting international cruise ships. Länsisatama is one of the busiest Finnish passenger ports, with approximately 7 million passengers annually.
After moving in the Vuosaari port in 2008, after the container traffic in 2008, Länsisatama has undergone a major transformation. The city has adopted plans for the expansion of port infrastructure, the construction of new housing areas and the erection of a tunnel system that will improve the traffic flow.
Jätkäsaari, as part of the länsisatame, is based on a sustainable urban plan that includes green spaces, footpaths and contemporary architecture. The district is connected to the 7 and 9 tram lines, which provide quick access to the city center.
Jätkäsaari and Länsisatama are an example of the transformation of Helsinki, where the former industrial port is turning into a modern city quarter. With excellent traffic connections, expansion of residential areas and business opportunities, Länsisatama remains a door in Helsinka, which combine history with modern urban life.
Crusellinsilta is one of the most important bridges in Helsinki. Located in the Länsisatam district and connects Ruoholahti and Jätkäsaari, two key city neighborhoods. This 173.5 -meter long bridge is not only a functional transport connection, but also an architectural achievement that reflects contemporary design trends and urban development of the Finnish capital.
The bridge was officially opened on June 14, 2011 and was named after Bernhard Henrik Cruse, a Finnish composer and clarinetist. Its design is based on asymmetrical cable construction, which provides stability and visual attraction. The main range of the bridge measures 92 meters, while the second range is 51.5 meters long. The bridge is 24.8 meters wide, allowing on foot, cycling, cars and trams.
The CruseSilt is designed to give a sense of ease and breathability, which was one of the main design principles. His steel pylon rises 49 meters above sea level, giving him a distinctive appearance. In addition, the bridge has special illumination that emphasizes its elegant structure at night.
The bridge plays a key role in connecting Ruoholahti and Jätkäsaari, two fast -growing urban areas. In addition to automotive traffic, Cruselingilt is also important for tram lines, as it is followed by a number 8 tram, which connects different parts of Helsinki.
Helsinki is a city that is constantly growing and developing, with key infrastructure projects adapting to the needs of the modern urban environment. Among the most important examples of this transformation are Tammasaarentaititu, the city connection in Ruoholahdi, and the HTC Helsinki (High Tech Center) business complex, consisting of several buildings named after the historic ships of researchers. Both represent a mixture of functionality, architectural perfection and historical references that complement the identity of the Finnish capital.
Tammasaarentaituritura is a key urban connection that allows access to Tammasaarenlaitura, a popular Helsinki recreation and business area. It connects pedestrians, cyclists and car traffic and serves as a transition between different city quarter. Its location near the Lauttasaaren Bridge increases its strategic value in mobility and connecting the urban environment.
In addition to its traffic function, Tammasaarentaituritu provides access to office buildings, recreational areas and even fishing areas such as Tammaarenlaitura, which Helsinki residents use for water release.
Tammasaarentaituritura leads to one of the most important business centers in Ruoholahdi -HTC Helsinki, which means the High Tech Center. This complex combines several buildings named after the famous research ships, combining the history of maritime expeditions with contemporary business needs.
Santa Maria, named after Kristofor's ship Columba, hosts the central reception and Explorer.
Pinta, the fastest ship of Columbus' expedition, includes a conference center where the meeting rooms can be rented.
Nina, the smallest ship of expeditions, but Columbus's favorite, hosts Acqua Restaurant and a sauna and conference room.
Vega, the ship of Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld, was the first building built at HTC Helsinki.
Kon-Tiki, Thora Heyerdahl's ship, is architecturally different from other buildings in the complex and adds a variety of HTC Helsinki visual identity.
In recent years, Helsinki has been moving towards a sustainable energy future, with Salmisaaren Voimalaitos playing a key role in this transition. Initially designed as a coal-fired power plant, the facility served as a central energy source for Finland’s capital. However, its operations gradually adapted to environmental requirements and urban development strategies, integrating it into the modern city landscape.
History and Energy Role
For decades, Salmisaaren Voimalaitos was an essential part of Helsinki’s energy supply, producing electricity, heat, and cooling power. Originally, the plant operated using coal, ensuring stable energy delivery to the city. However, with the global shift towards reducing emissions, Helsinki began transitioning to cleaner energy sources, leading to the closure of coal-based facilities.
Energy Transformation
In 2025, Helsinki took decisive steps to phase out coal usage, which included Salmisaaren Voimalaitos. The site was transformed with modern alternative energy systems, such as pellet boilers and electric heating plants with a total capacity of 100 MW, along with an industrial heat pump that contributes to district heating and cooling. This transition significantly reduced greenhouse gas emissions, marking an important step towards carbon neutrality.
Integration into the Urban Environment
The power plant area is no longer just an energy hub but is gradually evolving into an integral part of modern Helsinki’s urban landscape. New energy facilities are architecturally designed to fit the city’s aesthetics, including brick façades on the new electric heating plants for visual harmony.
Additionally, the area is becoming a business center, with energy company Helen, which manages the plant, moving into modern office spaces. One of the major developments is We Land, a business complex focused on sustainable innovation.
Infrastructure changes have also impacted city mobility, with updates to Porkkalankatu improving access for pedestrians and cyclists, contributing to a more connected urban design.
Helsinki, Finland’s capital, is renowned for its mix of cultural heritage and stunning natural landscapes. One of its most fascinating locations is Hietaniemi, an area that seamlessly blends historical significance with modern-day leisure. Situated near the city's center, Hietaniemi is home to both the Hietaniemi Cemetery, an esteemed burial site, and Hietaniemi Beach, a popular summertime destination.
Hietaniemi Cemetery holds great historical value for Finland, serving as the final resting place of numerous influential figures. Presidents, war heroes, artists, and scholars have been laid to rest here, making it an essential site for understanding Finland’s legacy. One of the most famous graves belongs to Marshal Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim, a key figure in Finland’s military history and national independence. The cemetery is divided into sections for different religious communities, including Lutheran, Jewish, Islamic, and Orthodox burial sites, demonstrating Finland’s cultural diversity.
In stark contrast to the solemn beauty of the cemetery, Hietaniemi Beach—often referred to as "Hietsu" by locals—serves as Helsinki’s most popular sandy retreat. During the summer months, the beach transforms into a lively hub for relaxation and outdoor activities. People gather for swimming, beach volleyball, picnicking, and sunbathing, making it an integral part of Helsinki’s social scene. Adjacent to the beach, open fields, cafes, and even a public sauna enhance the experience, providing locals and tourists with various ways to unwind.
Hietaniemi’s dual nature—being both a place of remembrance and recreation—makes it a remarkable location that reflects the essence of Helsinki. It embodies Finland’s ability to respect its past while celebrating its present. Locals cherish Hietaniemi for its tranquility and beauty, whether they are paying tribute to historical figures or enjoying the sunlit shores of the beach.
Hietaranta Beach, often referred to as Hietsu, is one of Helsinki’s most beloved sandy retreats. Located in the Etu-Töölö district, near Hietaniemi Cemetery, this beach offers a perfect blend of relaxation, recreation, and scenic beauty.
Originally a landfill in the early 20th century, Hietaranta was transformed into a public beach, quickly becoming a favorite among locals and tourists alike. Its central location makes it easily accessible, whether by foot, bike, or public transport.
Hietaranta is more than just a place to sunbathe. It boasts beach volleyball and basketball courts, making it a hub for sports enthusiasts. The cliffs on the south side provide stunning views towards Espoo, adding to the beach’s charm. During the summer months, lifeguards supervise the area, ensuring a safe swimming experience.
Visitors can enjoy changing rooms, showers, toilets, and a café, making it a convenient spot for a day out. The beach also offers accessible swimming options, ensuring inclusivity for all visitors.
Beyond its recreational appeal, Hietaranta occasionally hosts concerts and events, further cementing its role as a vibrant community space. Its popularity continues to grow, making it one of the best-equipped beaches in Helsinki.
In the heart of Helsinki, surrounded by the natural beauty of Sibelius Park, stands one of Finland’s most iconic artistic monuments—the Sibelius Monument. This unique sculpture, dedicated to the legendary Finnish composer Jean Sibelius, not only represents his exceptional musical contributions but also showcases the innovative artistic vision of sculptor Eila Hiltunen.
The sculpture, known as Passio Musicae, is a monumental artwork consisting of more than 600 hollow steel pipes, forming a wave-like, almost organ-like structure. Although it appears abstract at first glance, its shape evokes musical vibrations and the natural rhythms of Sibelius’s compositions. Accompanying the structure is a portrait of Sibelius, added as a compromise after public criticism from those who wanted a more traditional depiction of the composer.
Upon its unveiling in 1967, the monument received mixed reactions. Some viewed it as a groundbreaking artistic piece that modernly reflected Sibelius’s legacy, while others found it too abstract. Over time, it has become one of Helsinki’s most recognizable landmarks, mesmerizing visitors not only visually but also acoustically—as strong winds passing through the pipes create unique sounds.
The Sibelius Monument symbolizes the power of music and its influence on Finnish national identity. Jean Sibelius, particularly through his composition Finlandia, became one of the key artists in shaping Finland’s national consciousness. His monument is not just an artistic installation but a memorial site, bridging history, music, and contemporary art.
From the Sibelius Monument, we headed east through Topelikusen Park toward Töölö Bay, about 1 km away, and continued on to our next destination, the Oodi Library.
Töölönlahti, also known as Töölö Bay, is a scenic urban bay in the heart of Helsinki that blends nature, culture, and history into a uniquely vibrant setting. Located just north of the city’s main thoroughfare, Mannerheimintie, it is surrounded by some of Finland’s most iconic institutions, including Finlandia Hall, the Finnish National Opera, the Music Centre, Oodi Library, and the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art.
Töölönlahti is a partially reshaped bay, now known as the green heartbeat of Helsinki. A 2.2 km walking and cycling path encircles the bay, popular with joggers, walkers, and cyclists alike. Along the route, visitors find benches, flowerbeds, playgrounds, and even 19th-century wooden villas in the Linnunlaulu area—a reminder of the city’s heritage.
At the northern end stands the Winter Garden (Talvipuutarha), a historic greenhouse filled with exotic plants, offering a tropical escape during Finland’s long winters. Nearby, the bay connects with Eläintarhanlahti through a narrow water passage beneath a railway embankment.
Töölönlahti isn’t just a natural park; it’s also a cultural center. Along its shores sit concert halls, museums, and libraries, creating a dynamic space for art, learning, and community. In summer, the park hosts outdoor concerts, film screenings, and festivals, while in winter, the bay often freezes and becomes a peaceful scene for ice fishing or simply quiet reflection.
The area is also a hotspot for birdwatching, with many species of waterfowl nesting in its reeds. During warmer months, visitors can rent SUP boards or canoes, adding variety to its recreational offerings.
Töölönlahti is a prime example of how a city can successfully integrate infrastructure with nature. Once surrounded by railway warehouses and industrial buildings, it has been transformed into a modern urban oasis—a place to unwind, exercise, or connect with culture.
Lähde, officially known as the UKK-muistomerkki (Urho Kekkonen Monument), is a contemporary public artwork located in Hakasalmi Park in central Helsinki, right next to the iconic Finlandia Hall. It is dedicated to Urho Kaleva Kekkonen (1900.1986), Finland’s long-serving president, who led the nation from 1956 to the early 1980s, overseeing a period of political stability and neutrality during the Cold War.
The monument was designed by renowned Finnish sculptor Pekka Jylhä, who won a public competition in 1997 with his concept Lähde (The Spring). The work was officially unveiled on September 3, 2000, marking the centenary of Kekkonen’s birth.
At its center is a droplet-shaped stainless steel water basin, shimmering in light and designed to remain unfrozen even in winter. Rising from the basin are four eight-meter-tall columns, each topped with a bronze hand. These hands symbolize Kekkonen’s personality and expressive style—he was known for writing everything by hand, including his famous “mill letters” (myllykirjeet), with which he influenced public debate.
Nearby, Kekkonen’s name—URHO KEKKONEN—and the years 1900.1986 are carved into a rock. Adjacent to it grows a rose bush originally taken from the garden of his childhood home, Lepikon torppa in Kainuu—an intimate and emotional tribute to his roots.
According to the artist, the work was inspired by encounters with nature—the feeling one experiences atop a mountain, by the sea, or at a spring. It speaks to the sense of something greater, a place for stillness and self-reflection. Thus, Lähde is not only a monument to a leader, but also a space for contemplation, inviting reflection on leadership, nature, and spirituality.
After its unveiling, the monument sparked public debate—not due to its artistic merit, but because of safety concerns. Some feared that the sleek steel basin posed a risk if someone fell in and couldn’t climb out. As a result, underwater ladders were later installed to ensure visitor safety.
Lähde, officially known as the UKK-muistomerkki (Urho Kekkonen Monument), is a contemporary public artwork located in Hakasalmi Park in central Helsinki, right next to the iconic Finlandia Hall. It is dedicated to Urho Kaleva Kekkonen (1900.1986), Finland’s long-serving president, who led the nation from 1956 to the early 1980s, overseeing a period of political stability and neutrality during the Cold War.
The monument was designed by renowned Finnish sculptor Pekka Jylhä, who won a public competition in 1997 with his concept Lähde (The Spring). The work was officially unveiled on September 3, 2000, marking the centenary of Kekkonen’s birth.
At its center is a droplet-shaped stainless steel water basin, shimmering in light and designed to remain unfrozen even in winter. Rising from the basin are four eight-meter-tall columns, each topped with a bronze hand. These hands symbolize Kekkonen’s personality and expressive style—he was known for writing everything by hand, including his famous “mill letters” (myllykirjeet), with which he influenced public debate.
Nearby, Kekkonen’s name—URHO KEKKONEN—and the years 1900.1986 are carved into a rock. Adjacent to it grows a rose bush originally taken from the garden of his childhood home, Lepikon torppa in Kainuu—an intimate and emotional tribute to his roots.
According to the artist, the work was inspired by encounters with nature—the feeling one experiences atop a mountain, by the sea, or at a spring. It speaks to the sense of something greater, a place for stillness and self-reflection. Thus, Lähde is not only a monument to a leader, but also a space for contemplation, inviting reflection on leadership, nature, and spirituality.
After its unveiling, the monument sparked public debate—not due to its artistic merit, but because of safety concerns. Some feared that the sleek steel basin posed a risk if someone fell in and couldn’t climb out. As a result, underwater ladders were later installed to ensure visitor safety.
Mannerheimintie, often affectionately called Mansku, is Helsinki’s main thoroughfare—both a vital traffic artery and a symbolic corridor through the city. It is not merely a street, but a historical narrative that reflects the Finnish capital’s identity, growth, and political memory.
The roots of Mannerheimintie go back to the 17th century, when it served as one of two major roads leading into what was then a small town. It stretched northwest through Haaga and Pitäjänmäki toward Espoo, connecting with the King’s Road linking Turku to Vyborg. In the 19th century, it was known as Turuntie (Turku Road), and later as Henrikinkatu, named after Secretary of State Robert Henrik Rehbinder.
Following the Finnish Civil War in 1918 and the victory of the White forces led by General Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim, the street was renamed in his honor. Thus, Mannerheimintie became not only a geographic path but also a political monument and national symbol.
Mannerheimintie begins at Erottaja in central Helsinki and runs north past Stockmann, the Parliament House (Eduskuntatalo), the Music Centre (Musiikkitalo), Kiasma Museum, the National Museum, the Finnish National Opera, and through the districts of Töölö, Meilahti, Laakso, and Ruskeasuo, eventually merging with the E12 motorway toward Hämeenlinna and Tampere. The entire stretch is approximately 5.5 kilometers long.
Along its length stand key institutions such as the University Hospital, Bolt Arena, Olympic Stadium, Botanical Gardens, embassies, museums, and government offices. Mannerheimintie is truly the artery of Finnish public life.
The avenue is broad, multi-lane, with dedicated tracks for trams, cyclists, and pedestrians. It’s lined with a mix of architectural styles—from neoclassical facades to functionalist and glass-fronted modern buildings. In recent years, the street has undergone extensive renovation, focusing on infrastructure upgrades, sustainability, and accessibility.
Mannerheimintie has hosted parades, protests, celebrations, and daily life. Soldiers, students, artists, and heads of state have walked its pavement. It is where history meets modernity, and where power meets people. Its proximity to the Parliament and Oodi Library emphasizes its role as a space of democratic dialogue.
Oodi Library (Helsinki Central Library Oodi) is a cultural hub, and a symbol of an open society of Finland. Since its opening in December 2018, it has stood at the heart of Helsinki’s urban life, directly opposite Parliament, next to Kansalaistori (Citizens’ Square), between the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma and the Music Centre (Musiikkitalo).
Designed by Finnish firm ALA Architects, who won an international competition from over 540 entries, Oodi is organized into three levels, each with a distinct atmosphere and function:
The ground floor is an open, flowing public space with a restaurant, cafés, exhibitions, and the Kino Regina cinema. It’s designed for casual encounters, events, and the city’s daily rhythm.
The second floor is a creative workshop zone with studios, sewing machines, 3D printers, music rooms, and recording booths—a place where ideas take shape.
The third floor, known as the Book Heaven, is a bright, tranquil space overlooking Parliament and the city. It houses over 100,000 books, cozy reading corners, real trees, and even hanging net hammocks for relaxing.
The exterior is clad in Finnish spruce, while glass and steel create a luminous and open interior. The building is highly energy-efficient and sustainably designed, reflecting Finland’s environmental values.
Oodi isn’t just for borrowing books—it’s called the “living room of the city.” It's open to everyone, regardless of age, background, or status. The library regularly hosts:
Public talks and lectures
Workshops for children and adults
Film screenings and concerts
Community meetups and cultural exchanges
Notably, Oodi has no traditional service desks—librarians move freely through the space, helping visitors where needed. On the third floor, autonomous robots deliver books from the storage system, showcasing how technology can enhance public space.
In 2019, the International Federation of Library Associations (IFLA) awarded Oodi the title of Best Public Library in the World. Its design, accessibility, and social role have become a model for libraries around the globe.
There is also a café in the library where we took a break after a long walk. In the reading room, we borrowed a few booklets and browsed through them while resting. Betka decided to rest a little longer, and I chose to explore the surroundings.
Kansalaistori, or Citizens' Square, is a modern public space in central Helsinki that symbolizes openness, democracy, and the urban transformation of Finland’s capital. It sits among key political and cultural institutions: bordered by the Helsinki Music Centre (Musiikkitalo) and the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma on one side, and by the Parliament House (Eduskuntatalo) and the Oodi Central Library on the other. Its strategic location makes it a crossroads of art, knowledge, and civic life.
Kansalaistori was constructed in the early 21st century on the site of the former Töölö freight rail yard, which once connected the harbor to inland Finland. After the tracks were removed and the warehouses demolished, a new urban center emerged. The square was designed as an open, multifunctional space to serve daily use and large public gatherings alike.
The square combines paved surfaces and green areas, with low benches, water features, and recreational areas, including an artificial turf sports court. In summer, it’s a popular meeting spot for skaters, cyclists, and families; in winter, it hosts holiday markets and light installations. The Baana cycling and pedestrian corridor passes directly through it, connecting the city’s west and east via the old railway line.
Kansalaistori has become a vibrant venue for events, from film picnics during the Helsinki Festival (Leffapiknik) and the Taste of Helsinki food festival to New Year’s Eve celebrations and political demonstrations. Its openness and proximity to Parliament embody the ideal of dialogue between citizens and government.
On the eastern edge of the square stands Oodi Library, which—with its architecture and offerings—enhances the square’s identity as a place for knowledge, freedom, and community. To the north lies Makasiinipuisto, a smaller park with a playground and sports facilities, which together with Töölönlahti Park forms a green corridor leading to Töölönlahti Bay.
Laulupuut, meaning Singing Trees, is a contemporary public sculpture located in the square between the Helsinki Music Centre (Musiikkitalo) and the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma in central Helsinki. Created by Finnish artist Reijo Hukkanen, the work was selected through a public competition in 2010 and unveiled in August 2012. It is one of Helsinki’s most recognizable works of art, combining folk symbolism, modern aesthetics, and technical mastery.
The sculpture consists of three parts, with its central element being a 13-meter-tall pike (hauki) standing upright on its tail, mouth open as if in song. Beside it are two vertical structures of similar height, merging grand piano lids with piles of firewood—a fusion of high culture and rustic simplicity. This union reflects the duality often present in Finnish identity: the refined beauty of art and the groundedness of everyday life.
Crafted from aluminum and steel, the sculpture has a contemporary yet solid presence. The pike’s head alone consists of 70 cast pieces, produced over nearly two years at the Lapinlahti Art Foundry. Welding the pieces required over 20 rolls of aluminum wire, with artisans painstakingly aligning joints to maintain the sculpture’s seamless appearance.
Laulupuut stands in Kansalaistori, or Citizens’ Square—an urban plaza that represents openness and democratic ideals. Its location between Parliament, the Oodi Library, Musiikkitalo, and Kiasma is symbolic: the sculpture bridges dialogue between art, citizens, and authority. With its whimsical yet commanding form, it invites passersby to reflect on community, culture, and imagination. Kansalaistori, or Citizens' Square, is a modern public space in central Helsinki that symbolizes openness, democracy, and the urban transformation of Finland’s capital. It sits among key political and cultural institutions: bordered by the Helsinki Music Centre (Musiikkitalo) and the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma on one side, and by the Parliament House (Eduskuntatalo) and the Oodi Central Library on the other. Its strategic location makes it a crossroads of art, knowledge, and civic life.
Musiikkitalo, or the Helsinki Music Centre, is a modern concert and cultural venue in the heart of the Finnish capital that blends art, architecture, and education into a unique public space. Located on Kansalaistori (Citizens’ Square), between the Finnish National Opera and the Parliament House, it has become one of the country’s most important sites for classical music and cultural events.
Musiikkitalo officially opened in 2011 after decades of discussion about the need for a modern concert venue in Helsinki. The project emerged through collaboration between three main institutions: the Sibelius Academy, the Helsinki Philharmonic Orchestra, and the YLE Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra. Its mission was to create an open, accessible space where artists, students, and the general public could come together.
The building was designed by LPR Architects, who opted for a minimalist yet warm architectural language using wood, glass, and copper. Its discreet façade blends harmoniously with the urban surroundings, while the interior surprises with light-filled spaces and exceptional acoustics.
Key features include: A Main Concert Hall with 1,704 seats, designed for optimal acoustics without electronic amplification.
Five smaller halls: Black Box (for electronic and amplified music), Sonore (for musical theatre), Camerata (for chamber music), Organo (featuring a concert organ), and Paavo Hall (a rehearsal space for orchestras).
Rehearsal rooms, classrooms, and offices for the Sibelius Academy.
A café, restaurant, and shops, including the Fuga music store and the Ostinato sheet music shop.
Cultural Significance
Musiikkitalo is more than a concert hall—it’s a vibrant hub for musical life. It hosts over 1,000 events annually, ranging from symphonic performances and operatic evenings to contemporary experiments and family-friendly workshops. It also offers an open environment where anyone can enter the foyer, attend exhibitions, or simply enjoy the atmosphere.
The building houses artwork as well, such as “Laulupuut” by Reijo Hukkanen and “Gaia” by Kirsi Kaulasen, enriching the experience for visitors.
Designed with accessibility in mind, the venue includes step-free entrances, elevators, tactile guides for the visually impaired, and open spaces for social gathering. In summer, activities often spill out onto the terrace with free concerts and public events.
The Kyösti Kallio Monument, located just north of the Finnish Parliament House (Eduskuntatalo) in Helsinki’s Eduskuntapuisto park, stands as a solemn tribute to one of Finland’s most influential statesmen. Kyösti Kallio (1873.1940), the fourth President of Finland, served during a turbulent period marked by the looming threat of World War II. His legacy is deeply tied to Finnish democracy, rural values, and national resilience.
The statue was unveiled on November 10, 1962, and was sculpted by none other than Kallio’s own son, Kalervo Kallio, a respected artist in his own right. The work is a traditional bronze likeness, depicting the president seated in a contemplative pose. The statue itself stands 3.6 meters tall, resting on a 1.7-meter red granite pedestal, giving it both physical and symbolic weight.
Kallio’s political career spanned decades: he was a member of the Diet and Parliament from 1904 to 1937, served multiple terms as Speaker of Parliament, and held various ministerial roles, including Prime Minister. His presidency (1937.1940) was marked by increasing international tension, and he ultimately resigned due to health concerns. In a poignant moment etched into Finnish memory, Kallio collapsed and died at the Helsinki Railway Station on December 19, 1940, just as he was about to return home to Nivala. A commemorative plaque at the station marks this dramatic farewell.
The monument’s placement near the Parliament is no coincidence-it reflects Kallio’s lifelong dedication to representative government and the Finnish people. Though the statue’s artistic style has been critiqued as rigid or overly formal, its emotional resonance remains strong. It is one of only a few presidential monuments in Helsinki that were commissioned without a public competition, underscoring the personal and national significance of the tribute.
The monument to Kaarlo Juho Ståhlberg, the first President of the Republic of Finland, stands near the Parliament House (Eduskuntatalo) at Mannerheimintie 30 in Helsinki. This bronze statue, unveiled in 1959, was created by renowned sculptor Wäinö Aaltonen, one of Finland’s most influential artists of the 20th century. The monument honors a man who laid the foundations of Finland’s constitutional democracy and rule of law.
Ståhlberg (1865.1952) was a lawyer, professor, and politician who, after Finland gained independence in 1917, became its first president (1919.1925). He was a central figure in drafting the country’s constitution and a staunch advocate of parliamentary governance, civil rights, and legal order. His presidency marked a period of stabilization following the Civil War and the consolidation of democratic institutions.
The statue depicts Ståhlberg standing upright, holding a book of law in his right hand, symbolizing his legal expertise and his role in shaping the nation’s constitutional framework. The artistic style is classical and restrained, reflecting both Aaltonen’s approach and Ståhlberg’s own personality—serious, dedicated, and composed. The statue rests on a red granite pedestal, lending it additional gravity and dignity.
Interestingly, the monument was selected after two sculpture competitions—the first, held in 1955, did not yield a satisfactory result, prompting a second round in which four artists were invited, including Aaltonen, whose work ultimately won. Today, the statue is part of the City of Helsinki’s public art collection, managed by the Helsinki Art Museum (HAM).
The Ståhlberg Monument is more than a tribute to an individual—it’s a symbol of the republic’s beginnings and the values upon which modern Finnish society is built. Its proximity to Parliament underscores the continuity between Ståhlberg’s vision and contemporary political life.
The monument to Pehr Evind Svinhufvud, the third President of the Republic of Finland, stands in close proximity to the Parliament House (Eduskuntatalo) at Mannerheimintie 30 in Helsinki. This bronze statue, created by sculptor Wäinö Aaltonen, was unveiled on December 15, 1961, to mark the centenary of Svinhufvud’s birth. It is part of the City of Helsinki’s public art collection, managed by the Helsinki Art Museum (HAM).
Svinhufvud (1861.1944) was a pivotal figure in Finland’s struggle for independence. In November 1917, as head of the so-called Senate for Independence, he helped prepare Finland’s Declaration of Independence, which was adopted in December. He also led a delegation to Petrograd (St. Petersburg) to secure recognition from Lenin for the newly declared republic. He went on to serve as Speaker of Parliament, President of the Supreme Court, and President of Finland from 1931 to 1937.
The statue portrays Svinhufvud in his signature stance: left hand in his pocket, right fist resting on a column, symbolizing resolve and authority. This posture closely resembles that of Aaltonen’s statue of K.J. Ståhlberg, reflecting both artistic continuity and mutual respect for these statesmen. The statue stands at 2.8 meters tall (excluding its pedestal), which is made of red granite, adding to its monumentality and weight.
Svinhufvud was affectionately known as “Ukko-Pekka,” a nickname that reflects the public’s admiration and respect. His statue stands alongside other presidential monuments nearby, forming a symbolic landscape of Finnish statehood and political history.
The P.E. Svinhufvud Monument is not just an artwork—it is a tangible reminder of the decisive moments that shaped Finland’s journey to sovereignty. Its placement in central Helsinki invites passersby to pause, reflect, and sense the weight of history that continues to shape modern Finnish society.
Eduskuntatalo, or the Parliament House, is a commanding building in the heart of Helsinki that has stood for nearly a century as a symbol of Finnish democracy, political stability, and architectural refinement. Located on the Arkadianmäki hill at Mannerheimintie 30, it anchors Finland’s civic identity with its monumental presence.
In 1906, Finland introduced a unicameral parliamentary system-one of the first in the world to grant universal suffrage, including voting rights for women. The new Parliament held its first session in 1907, but meetings initially took place in temporary locations. After several failed proposals and architectural contests, the hill of Arkadianmäki was selected in 1923 as the site for the permanent Parliament building. The winning design from a 1924 competition was called Oratoribus by the architectural trio Borg-Sirén-Åberg, with Johan Sigfrid Sirén as lead architect.
Construction began in 1926, and the building was officially inaugurated on March 7, 1931. Since then, Eduskuntatalo has been the setting for some of Finland’s most pivotal moments, including key sessions during the Winter War and the Cold War.
Eduskuntatalo is an outstanding example of Nordic Classicism, blending neoclassical grandeur with modernist clarity. The facade is adorned with sixteen Corinthian columns, carved from red Kalvola granite, which lend the building both dignity and timeless elegance. Rising 25 meters high, the building has six floors that extend into the hillside.
The interior showcases remarkable attention to detail—from marble staircases and wood-paneled chambers to artworks throughout the halls and committee rooms. The main plenary chamber, where 200 Members of Parliament convene, is the heart of legislative activity and is designed with advanced acoustics and symbolic features, including national motifs and coats of arms.
As the demands of government increased, the Parliament complex was expanded. In 1978, wings were added to provide additional workspace for MPs. In 2004, the Pikkuparlamentti (Little Parliament) building was completed nearby to accommodate more offices and public spaces.
Between 2015 and 2017, Eduskuntatalo underwent a comprehensive renovation, upgrading its infrastructure, improving energy efficiency, and preserving historic elements. During the renovation, sessions were temporarily held in the Little Parliament.
Eduskuntatalo is not only the seat of Finland’s legislative power-it is also a symbol of national independence, equality, and transparency. Its architecture and location reflect Finland’s transformation from an autonomous Grand Duchy to a modern democratic state. Nearby monuments to presidents K.J. Ståhlberg, P.E. Svinhufvud, and Kyösti Kallio create a symbolic landscape of Finnish statehood.
The Parliament House is open to the public. Visitors can take part in guided tours, view sessions in progress, and learn about the legislative process. A visitor center on the ground floor offers exhibitions, publications, and interactive displays about Finnish governance.
After exploring the surroundings of the Oodi Library, I returned to get Betka. We headed north along the shore of Töölö Bay, a 900-meter-long inlet crossed by a railway bridge on the eastern bank, while a walking path runs along the left side. After fifteen minutes, we arrived at the botanical garden located at the northern end of the bay.
Talvipuutarha, or the Winter Garden in Helsinki, is a charming green oasis in the midst of urban hustle, delighting visitors for over 130 years with its serenity, exotic plants, and historical charm. Located on the northern edge of Töölönlahti Bay, near the Olympic Stadium and the Finnish National Opera, it is one of the oldest public greenhouses in the country.
It was built in 1893 at the initiative of General Jacob Johan af Lindfors, a horticulture enthusiast who envisioned a space for relaxation and appreciation of nature during Finland’s long winters. The building, constructed in Victorian style with an iron frame and glass walls that let in abundant light, is divided into three main halls: the Palm Room, the Cactus Room, and the Seasonal Exhibition Area, each hosting plants from around the world.
Notable Plants at Talvipuutarha:
Palm trees (e.g. Phoenix canariensis) . The Canary Island date palm, with its feathery fronds, creates a tropical atmosphere and is one of the tallest plants in the garden.
Banana plant (Musa spp.). Though it rarely bears fruit, its large leaves evoke the lushness of Southeast Asia.
Camellias (Camellia japonica) . These evergreen shrubs bloom in early spring and enchant visitors with delicate flowers in shades of white, pink, and red.
Tree ferns (e.g. Dicksonia antarctica) . Primal-looking ferns from Australia that lend a tranquil, ancient air to the space.
Cacti and succulents . The dedicated room houses various species from the deserts of North and South America, including opuntias, agaves, and aloes.
Orchids (e.g. Phalaenopsis) . Often featured in seasonal displays, their exotic blossoms are true showstoppers.
A small pond filled with colorful koi and surrounded by aquatic plants adds to the atmosphere, while seasonal decorations keep the space fresh and engaging. During Christmas, the garden is adorned with poinsettias, amaryllises, and traditional Finnish tonttu figures. In spring, tulips and daffodils burst into bloom.
The garden is free and open to the public year-round, making it a beloved destination for families, photographers, couples, and anyone in search of peace. In addition to its aesthetic value, Talvipuutarha also serves an educational purpose, offering insight into botany and the importance of plant biodiversity.
From the botanical garden, we decided to take a long walk to Supercell, where Veronika works. We had been invited for a tour of the company, and Veronika also invited us for lunch at the Supercell restaurant.
Supercell, founded in 2010 and headquartered in Helsinki, Finland, has become one of the key forces in the global mobile gaming industry. It is known for titles such as Clash of Clans, Clash Royale, Brawl Stars, and Boom Beach. Its success stems not only from creative innovation but also from a unique organizational structure.
What sets Supercell apart is its philosophy of working in small, independent “cells” of developers. Each cell operates like a mini-startup with the autonomy to develop and test ideas without strict supervision. This decentralized model promotes creativity and rapid adaptability, enabling teams to build games they are genuinely passionate about. If a prototype doesn’t meet internal standards—even if it is nearly finished—it is abandoned without hesitation. This tough but honest approach ensures that only the most promising games reach the players.
The company's breakthrough hit, Clash of Clans, released in 2012, redefined mobile strategy games. By combining base-building, resource management, and online battles with a cartoon aesthetic, it quickly captivated a global audience. Its monetization model—free to play with optional in-game purchases—proved to be extremely popular and profitable.
Subsequent titles have continued this legacy, merging simple gameplay with deep strategic elements and social interaction. Clash Royale combined real-time strategy, card collecting, and tower defense elements. Brawl Stars introduced fast-paced multiplayer action to touchscreens in a format that appeals to a broad range of players.
Although Supercell was acquired by Chinese tech giant Tencent in 2016, the company retained its independence and culture of creative freedom. It remains a leading example of how to stay innovative while thriving on a global scale. By putting the player experience first and maintaining a lean structure, Supercell has redefined how mobile games are developed—and played.
In the afternoon, Veronika and Betka went shopping, while Klemen and I, despite the rather gloomy weather, decided to take a long walk to the Uspenski Cathedral.
The Uspenski Cathedral in Helsinki is a striking symbol of Finland’s Orthodox heritage and the largest Orthodox church in Western and Northern Europe. With its red-brick façade, gilded onion domes, and lavish interior, it commands a powerful presence atop Katajanokka Hill, overlooking the harbor and city center.
It was built between 1862 and 1868 based on designs by Russian architect Aleksey Gornostayev, who passed away before construction began. The project was continued by architect Ivan Varnek. The cathedral is dedicated to the Dormition of the Mother of God, which is reflected in its name—“Uspenski” derives from the Old Church Slavonic word for the death or “falling asleep” of the Virgin Mary.
Interestingly, the construction used around 700,000 bricks brought from the demolished Bomarsund fortress in the Åland Islands, which was destroyed during the Crimean War. The interior features a richly adorned iconostasis wall, painted by Russian artist Pavel Shiltsov, blending classical elements with Russo-Byzantine motifs.
Uspenski is not merely a place of worship but also a cultural monument. At the time of its construction, Finland was an autonomous Grand Duchy within the Russian Empire, so the cathedral also symbolizes political history and the influence of Eastern Christianity in the region. A memorial plaque on the rear wall of the church honors Tsar Alexander II, who supported its construction.
Today, Uspenski is one of the most visited landmarks in Helsinki, attracting more than half a million visitors annually. In addition to religious services, it also hosts concerts and cultural events. Its silhouette rising above the city remains a timeless testament to the blend of Eastern spirituality and Northern architectural elegance.
Day Four (April 29, Tuesday)
April 29th is Veronika’s birthday, so she and Klemen invited us in the afternoon to the Supercell Wellness Center, where she had reserved a private session.
Betka and I decided to spend the morning exploring the center of Helsinki and enjoy lunch at the Kauppatori Market.
We left the apartment and walked through Tähtitorninvuori Park to the Kauppatori Market.
Tähtitorninvuori Park, also known as Observatory Hill (Tähtitorninmäki), is one of the oldest and most picturesque city parks in Helsinki. It is located in the Ullanlinna district, right next to the South Harbour, and offers stunning views of the sea and the city skyline. But behind this green hill lies a rich history stretching back centuries.
In the past, the hill served as a natural point for observation and signaling. During the so-called Great Wrath (Isoviha) in the 18th century, signal fires were lit here, highlighting its strategic importance. In 1748, a small fortress named Ulrikasborg was built atop the hill, named after Swedish Queen Ulrika Eleonora. Although the fortress was later demolished, it gave its name to the surrounding district of Ullanlinna.
In the 1830s, the Helsinki Observatory was constructed at the hill’s summit, designed by Carl Ludvig Engel. This building became an important scientific center and today serves as a public hub for astronomy. Due to light pollution, astronomical observations are no longer conducted there, but the observatory remains a valuable cultural monument.
The park as we know it today began to take shape in the 1860s, when Swedish landscape architect Knut Forsberg proposed terracing the slopes in an amphitheater style. The project was part of public works during a time of famine and was funded through charitable events and alcohol sales. Later, city gardener Svante Olsson completed the park’s design following a German model with winding paths, open lawns, and carefully planted trees.
Today, Tähtitorninvuori is a beloved retreat for walkers, picnics, and quiet reflection. On the southern edge of the park stands the sculpture Haaksirikkoiset ("The Shipwrecked") by sculptor Robert Stigell, created in 1897, adding an artistic touch to this historic setting.
From the park, we descended into the harbor and treated ourselves to a hearty salmon soup at the market.
Kauppatori, also known as the Market Square, is the vibrant heart of Helsinki and one of the most recognizable public spaces in Finland’s capital. Located along the shore of the South Harbour (Eteläsatama), at the eastern end of Esplanadi Park, it marks the point where the city meets the sea. This picturesque square is not only a marketplace but also a meeting point of history, culture, and daily life.
Kauppatori emerged in the early 19th century as part of Johan Albrecht Ehrenström’s urban plan that reshaped Helsinki into the new capital of the Grand Duchy of Finland. On the site of former muddy docks and fishing harbors, the area was filled in to create a spacious square suitable for maritime traffic. It was paved with granite cobblestones and bordered by three harbor basins that still serve as departure points for ferries to islands such as Suomenlinna and Korkeasaari.
At the center of the square stands Keisarinnankivi (the Empress’s Stone), the oldest public monument in Helsinki, erected in 1835 in honor of Empress Alexandra, wife of Nicholas I. On the western edge rises Havis Amanda, an elegant fountain from 1908 symbolizing Helsinki’s awakening as a maritime city.
Kauppatori is known for its stalls offering fresh produce, fish, handcrafted souvenirs, and traditional Finnish delicacies such as salmon soup and cinnamon buns. In summer, the square becomes a lively culinary and tourist hub, while in winter it offers warm drinks in heated tents. Every year in early October, it hosts Silakkamarkkinat—the traditional herring fair dating back to the 18th century and one of Finland’s oldest public events.
Bordering the square are important buildings such as the Presidential Palace, Helsinki City Hall, the Swedish Embassy, and the headquarters of Stora Enso, designed by Alvar Aalto. All this lends the square a sense of political and architectural significance.
Well-fed and nicely warmed up, we made a short detour to Senaatintori before heading off to Supercell.
Senate Square (Senaatintori), located in the heart of Helsinki, is more than just a public space—it’s the symbolic and architectural nucleus of Finland’s capital. Designed in the early 19th century as part of Helsinki’s transformation into the capital of the Grand Duchy of Finland, the square reflects the aspirations of a young nation asserting its identity through neoclassical grandeur.
At the center of Senate Square stands a statue of Emperor Alexander II, erected in 1894 to honor his reforms that increased Finland’s autonomy within the Russian Empire. The statue is surrounded by allegorical figures representing law, culture, and the people, and it became a quiet symbol of resistance during the Russification period.
The square is framed by four monumental buildings, all designed by German-born architect Carl Ludvig Engel: the Helsinki Cathedral, the Government Palace, the University of Helsinki’s main building, and the National Library of Finland. Together, they form a harmonious ensemble that embodies the ideals of political, religious, scientific, and cultural power1. The Helsinki Cathedral, with its striking white façade and green domes, dominates the skyline and is arguably Finland’s most photographed building.
Historically, the site was once a graveyard and the location of the Ulrika Eleonora Church. After a devastating fire in 1808, the area was cleared to make way for the new city center. The transformation was part of a broader urban plan by Johan Albrecht Ehrenström, with Engel’s architecture giving it a distinctly imperial character reminiscent of St. Petersburg.
Today, Senate Square is not only a historic landmark but also a vibrant cultural venue. It hosts concerts, art installations, Christmas markets, and even snowboarding events. A daily sound installation called The Sound of the Senate Square plays at 17:49, echoing across the buildings in a modern nod to the square’s enduring rhythm.
On the north side of the square, below the Helsinki Cathedral’s grand staircase is the street Hallituskatu stretching from Mariankatu to Unioninkatu. This east–west thoroughfare brushes past some of the capital’s most iconic landmarks, including the stately Senate Square and the Helsinki Cathedral’s grand staircase.
The name “Hallituskatu,” meaning “Government Street,” was officially adopted in 1909, though it had been in informal use since 1866. Its name pays homage to the Government Palace (Valtioneuvoston linna), which sits just south of the street. During the Swedish rule, it was known as Skolgatan (“School Street”), referencing the nearby Helsinki Trivial School, and later as Slottsgatan (“Castle Street”) when a grand imperial palace was envisioned for the area.
Architecturally, Hallituskatu is a blend of neoclassical elegance and civic gravitas. On one end, the Ritarihuone (House of Nobility) and the Finnish Literature Society’s headquarters anchor the street in cultural heritage. On the other, the Arppeanum and the Government Palace reflect the intellectual and administrative heart of the city.
Though modest in length, Hallituskatu’s significance lies in its proximity to power, culture, and history. It’s a street where cobblestones echo with the footsteps of scholars, statesmen, and everyday citizens alike. Today, it remains a serene corridor through Helsinki’s past, quietly connecting the city’s architectural splendor with its national narrative.
On our way to Supercell, Klemen joined us. Veronika welcomed us and took us to the wellness center. We indulged in a few sauna sessions and the indoor pool, followed by a sunset dip in the outdoor pool with a view over Helsinki, or more precisely, the Hietalahti district.
The next day, Veronika had a very full work schedule, so Klemen and I decided to take a trip to the Seurasaari open-air museum.
Hietalahti is a dynamic and historically significant district in Helsinki, Finland, located in the southernmost part of the Kamppi neighborhood. Known for its maritime heritage, bustling market square, and cultural landmarks, Hietalahti has evolved from an industrial hub into a lively urban area that blends tradition with modernity.
The name Hietalahti translates to "Sand Bay" in Finnish, reflecting its coastal location. Historically, the area was home to shipyards and industrial facilities, playing a crucial role in Helsinki’s maritime economy. The Hietalahti Shipyard, established in the 19th century, was one of the most important shipbuilding sites in Finland, contributing to the country’s naval and commercial fleet.
Over time, as Helsinki expanded and modernized, Hietalahti transformed into a mixed-use district, incorporating residential, commercial, and cultural spaces while preserving its industrial heritage.
Hietalahti is known for several notable sites that attract both locals and tourists:
- Hietalahti Market Hall – A historic indoor market offering fresh produce, seafood, and Finnish delicacies.
- Hietalahti Flea Market – One of Helsinki’s most famous flea markets, where visitors can find antiques, vintage clothing, and unique collectibles.
- Hietalahti Shipyard – A reminder of the district’s maritime past, now repurposed for modern industrial use.
- Olo n:o 22 Sculpture – A striking outdoor artwork located near the harbor basin, adding a cultural touch to the waterfront.
- Seaside Promenade – A scenic walkway offering stunning views of the Baltic Sea and nearby islands.
Hietalahti is a hub for creativity and social interaction, hosting various events, markets, and exhibitions throughout the year. The district’s cafés, restaurants, and boutique shops contribute to its vibrant atmosphere, making it a favorite spot for both residents and visitors.
Additionally, Hietalahti is home to community organizations, including the Helsinki International Bible Center and a Hare Krishna temple, reflecting the area’s diverse cultural influences.
Hietalahti is a unique blend of history, commerce, and culture, offering a glimpse into Helsinki’s maritime past while embracing modern urban life. Whether exploring its historic market hall, browsing treasures at the flea market, or enjoying a seaside stroll, visitors can experience the charm and energy of this evolving district.
Day Five (April 30, Wednesday)
From the Eira district, where we had our apartment, we set off in the early morning for a one-hour walk to the island of Seurasaari. The weather was "typically April"—rain, wind, sunshine...
Seurasaari Open-Air Museum: A Window into Finland’s Past
Nestled on a picturesque island Seurasaari Open-Air Museum offers visitors a unique opportunity to step back in time and experience traditional Finnish rural life. Established in 1909, the museum showcases historical wooden buildings relocated from various parts of Finland, preserving the country’s rich cultural heritage.
The idea for Seurasaari Open-Air Museum was inspired by Scandinavian open-air museums, particularly Skansen in Sweden. Finnish ethnologist Axel Olai Heikel spearheaded the project, aiming to preserve Finland’s rural architecture and way of life. Over the years, the museum has expanded to include over 85 buildings, each representing different regions and social classes of Finland.
Seurasaari’s collection of farmhouses, manors, cottages, and churches provides insight into Finland’s agricultural and social history. Some of the most notable structures include:
- Ivars Farmstead (Ostrobothnia, 1764) – A grand peasant house with an elegant porch, once visited by Tsar Alexander I.
- Kurssi Farmstead (Ostrobothnia, 19th century) – A traditional two-story farmhouse showcasing Finnish craftsmanship.
- Karuna Church (1685) – One of Finland’s oldest wooden churches, relocated from Southwest Finland.
- Niemelä Tenant Farm – A modest dwelling representing the life of Finnish tenant farmers.
Each building is authentically furnished, allowing visitors to experience daily life, traditions, and celebrations from centuries past.
Seurasaari is more than just a collection of old buildings—it is a living museum where visitors can interact with guides dressed in traditional costumes, participate in folk dances, and witness craft demonstrations. The museum hosts seasonal events, including:
- Midsummer Bonfires – A beloved Finnish tradition where a massive bonfire is lit to celebrate the summer solstice.
- Christmas Path – A festive event featuring traditional Finnish holiday customs.
Beyond its historical significance, Seurasaari is a tranquil island retreat with walking trails, picnic areas, and abundant wildlife. The island is home to tame squirrels, swans, and other native species, making it a popular spot for nature lovers.
After two hours of relaxation, Veronika invited us to a birthday celebration at the Karl Fazer pastry shop, where we naturally treated ourselves to cakes made with the famous Karl Fazer chocolate.
In the late afternoon, when we returned to Helsinki, Veronika invited us—on the occasion of her birthday—to the Karl Fazer patisserie, where we naturally treated ourselves to cakes made with the famous Karl Fazer chocolate.
The next day, on May 1st, a large public celebration and partying in Helsinki’s parks had been planned. Betka had arranged to meet with Anna-Maija, who was planning to come to Helsinki, while I had an early morning ferry to Tallinn, where I was scheduled to meet Andrej.
Day Six (Maj 1, Thursday) / trip to Talinn, Estonia
Day Seven (Maj 2, Friday)
Friday morning was gloomy and foggy. The plan was to visit Suomenlinna, but it wasn’t pleasant outside, as it was cold with a light drizzle. Nevertheless, we decided to go on the trip. From the apartment in Eira to the Vironallas harbor, it took twenty minutes of slow walking. The universal public transport app was sufficient for purchasing the ticket. The mini ferry runs every half hour and takes fifteen minutes to reach Suomenlinna.
Suomenlinna, also known as Sveaborg, is a historic sea fortress located on a group of islands off the coast of Helsinki, Finland. Built in the mid-18th century by Sweden, it has played a crucial role in Nordic military history and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The fortress was originally constructed by Sweden in 1748 to defend against Russian expansion. Designed by Augustin Ehrensvärd, Suomenlinna followed the principles of Vauban-style fortifications, adapted to the rocky islands. In 1808, during the Finnish War, Sweden surrendered Suomenlinna to Russia, leading to Finland’s eventual incorporation into the Russian Empire.
During World War I, Russia fortified Suomenlinna as part of its Baltic defenses. After Finland gained independence in 1917, the fortress was renamed Suomenlinna, meaning "Castle of Finland," and became a key military base.
Suomenlinna is a unique blend of military architecture and natural beauty. The fortress consists of eight islands, five of which are connected by bridges. Some of its most famous landmarks include:
King’s Gate – The symbolic entrance to the fortress.
Bastion fortifications – Designed to withstand naval attacks.
Submarine Vesikko – A restored Finnish submarine from World War II.
Suomenlinna Church – Originally built as an Orthodox church, later converted into a Lutheran church.
Today, Suomenlinna is not just a historical site but also a living community, home to around 800 residents.
Suomenlinna is one of Finland’s most visited attractions, offering museums, guided tours, artisan workshops, and scenic walking paths. Visitors can explore its military history, cultural heritage, and stunning coastal landscapes. The fortress also hosts art exhibitions, concerts, and seasonal events, making it a vibrant part of Helsinki’s cultural scene.
The Vesikko submarine is one of the most famous submarines of the Finnish Navy, which served during World War II. It was built in 1933 at the Crichton-Vulcan shipyard in Turku and was a prototype for the German submarines of Type II. She was retired after the war and today serves as a museum submarine on Suomelinna
Vesikko was originally designed as a commercial prototype for the Finnish Navy, but was actually part of a secret German program for the development of submarines under the Versa Treaty that banned Germany from building submarines.
Finland took over the submarine in 1936, when it became part of her Navy. During the Winter War (1939–1940) and the Continued War (1941-1944), Vesikko patroled in the Baltic Sea and sank the Soviet trade ship Vyborg, which was its only confirmed victory.
Technical characteristics
- Length **: 40.9 m
- width **: 4.1 m
- displacement **: 250 t (on the surface), 303 t (underwater)
- speed **: 13 knots on the surface, 8 knots underwater
- reach **: 1500 miles at 10 knots
- armament **: 3 torpedo pipes, 5 torpedes, 20 mm anti -aircraft top, 12.7 mm engine room
Vesikko was one of the five Finnish submarines that served during World War II. After the war, Finnish was prohibited from using submarines, so Vesikko was removed from operational use and stored.
In 1973, Vesikko was renovated and opened as a museum submarine in Suomelinna. Today it is part of the Finland Military Museum and one of the most popular historical landmarks in the country.
is a viewing platform located in Suomenlinna, the historic sea fortress in Helsinki. The terrace offers a panoramic view of the dry dock, which is one of the oldest still-operating dry docks in Finland.
Suomenlinna is a UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its rich history and architecture. The observation terrace near the dry dock is a popular spot for visitors, providing insight into maritime history and shipbuilding activities that were crucial to the fortress’s development.
Sotamuseon Maneesi is a historical exhibition space located in Suomenlinna, Helsinki. It is part of the Finnish War Museum (Sotamuseo) and serves as a dedicated venue for showcasing Finland’s military history. Originally built as a Russian artillery warehouse in the late 19th century, the building has since been repurposed into a museum that provides visitors with a comprehensive overview of Finland’s wars and defense forces.
The Maneesi was constructed between 1880 and 1881 during the Russian era in Finland. It was initially designed as a storage facility for artillery and military equipment. Over the years, the building underwent several transformations, including serving as a military training space and later as a museum exhibition hall.
After Finland gained independence in 1917, Suomenlinna became a strategic military site for the Finnish Defense Forces. The Maneesi continued to serve various military purposes until it was officially converted into a museum space in 1989. Since then, it has been an integral part of the Finnish War Museum, offering visitors a detailed look into Finland’s military past.
Sotamuseon Maneesi hosts permanent and temporary exhibitions that cover Finland’s military history from the early 20th century to the present day. Some of the key exhibitions include:
The Wars of Independent Finland: This section explores Finland’s involvement in four major conflicts—the Civil War (1918), Winter War (1939–1940), Continuation War (1941–1944), and Lapland War (1944–1945).
Frontline Art: A unique exhibition showcasing art created by soldiers during wartime, reflecting their experiences and emotions.
Life of a Soldier: This exhibit provides insights into the daily life of Finnish soldiers, both during wartime and in peacetime.
Special Exhibitions: The museum frequently hosts temporary exhibitions that highlight different aspects of military history, including weaponry, uniforms, and strategic operations.
The Maneesi is an architectural landmark within Suomenlinna. Built with brick and stone, it features a large hall space that was originally designed for storing heavy artillery. Over the years, the building has been renovated to accommodate museum exhibitions while preserving its historical integrity.
Sotamuseon Maneesi is open to the public and offers guided tours, interactive displays, and virtual exhibitions. Visitors can explore historical artifacts, learn about Finland’s military strategies, and gain a deeper understanding of the country’s defense forces. The museum is located in Suomenlinna, a UNESCO World Heritage site, making it an ideal destination for history enthusiasts.
Sotamuseon Maneesi stands as a testament to Finland’s military heritage, providing a rich and immersive experience for visitors. Through its exhibitions, collections, and historical significance, the museum plays a crucial role in preserving and educating people about Finland’s wartime history. Whether one is interested in military strategy, historical artifacts, or personal stories from soldiers, Sotamuseon Maneesi offers a comprehensive and engaging journey into Finland’s past.
It took us four hours to explore Suomenlinna and all the museums. We returned to Helsinki by ferry and headed toward the main railway station in the direction of Luomus – the Finnish Museum of Natural History.
Helsinki Central Railway Station (Helsingin päärautatieasema) is the main hub for local and long-distance rail traffic in Finland. Located at Kaivokatu 1, it is an architectural landmark designed by Eliel Saarinen.
The station was originally opened in 1862, but the current building was completed in 1919. Its facade is made of Finnish granite, and its most distinctive features include the clock tower and the statues by Emil Wikström at the main entrance.
It serves as the terminus for all commuter rail lines in the Helsinki region and is home to Rautatientori, the busiest metro station in Finland. Right in front of the station, there are two bus stops and a tram stop.
Kaivokatu is a short but significant street in central Helsinki, Finland. It runs past the Central Railway Station and connects Mannerheimintie in the west with Mikonkatu in the east, where it continues as Kaisaniemenkatu2. The street is a major hub for public transport, with tram and bus routes passing through, and it also houses the Ateneum Art Museum.
Lasipalatsinaukio (Lasipalatsi Square) is a modern plaza in the heart of Helsinki, known for its striking architecture and cultural significance. Originally an old bus station, it has been transformed into a vibrant public space featuring cafés, restaurants, and the Amos Rex Museum, which is located beneath the square.
The square is famous for its glass domes, which allow natural light to filter into the museum below, creating a futuristic, moon-like landscape. It has become one of the most Instagrammable spots in Helsinki, attracting both locals and tourists.
The Lasipalatsi Clock Tower in Helsinki is more than just a decorative feature—it's actually an air ventilation shaft and emergency exit for the underground Amos Rex Museum.
Lasipalatsi itself is a historic functionalist building, originally constructed in 1936. It was renovated as part of the Amos Rex project, which introduced modern exhibition spaces beneath Lasipalatsi Square. The square now features glass domes, which allow natural light to filter into the museum below.
The Helsinki Biennial is an international contemporary art event that brings outstanding art to Helsinki’s archipelago nature. The next biennial will take place from 8 June to 21 September 2025 across three venues: Vallisaari Island, Esplanade Park, and HAM Helsinki Art Museum.
The 2025 edition, titled "Shelter", explores the fragile relationship between humanity and the natural world. It moves beyond human-centric perspectives, highlighting animals, plants, fungi, insects, and minerals3. The biennial will feature 37 artists or collectives from Finland and around the world, with roughly half of the works being site-specific new commissions.
Baana is a pedestrian and cycling path in Helsinki, Finland, created as part of an urban renewal project. It was formerly a railway, specifically the Helsinki harbour railway, but was transformed into a 1.3-kilometer-long route starting from Kiasma. The path is widely used, with approximately 700,000 cyclists annually.
Baana was officially opened on Helsinki Day, 12 June 2012, after a naming competition led to its Finnish slang name, meaning "(rail)way". The route features sports-related facilities, including areas for skateboarding and table tennis, and connects to Kaisantunneli, a cycling and pedestrian tunnel under Helsinki Central Station.
Luomus - The Finnish Natural History Museum is one of the most important scientific and educational centers in Finland. It was founded in 1913 and operated under the auspices of the University of Helsinki. The museum focuses on the preservation of science collections, research and education.
Luomus was established to collect, preserve and study natural resources and education of the public about the importance of biodiversity. His collections include millions of specimens from different fields of science, such as geology, paleontology, zoology and botany.
The museum offers several permanent exhibitions that provide visitors with an insight into the development of life on Earth, the geological history of Finland, the arctic ecosystems and the diversity of the animal world. In addition, it manages two botanical gardens - kaisaniemi and cumpula, where various plant species from around the world are presented.
Luomus is located in Helsinki, and its main building extends over thousands of square meters, where science collections and research laboratories are exhibited.
The museum plays a key role in scientific research, conservation of natural resources and public education. His collections are among the 50 most important science collections in the world.
After thoroughly exploring Luomus, we made a quick shopping detour and visited Modern Art Gallery and Helsinki Cathedral. Once again, we craved the hearty salmon soup from the market, and then headed to Veronika and Klemen's, where we said our goodbyes, as we had an early flight to Ljubljana the next day.
Day Eight (Maj 3, Saturday)
Our flight to Ljubljana was scheduled for seven in the morning, so we left Eira for the main railway station at 4:30 a.m. We boarded the first morning train and arrived at the airport by six. We expected an empty terminal, but there was a suspicious crowd gathered in front of the flight information boards. We looked up and realized our flight had been cancelled. Before we could fully process the situation, I received an SMS from Finnair confirming the cancellation and informing us that the next available flight wouldn’t be until Monday at 9 p.m.
We both had work commitments on Monday and had intentionally planned to return a day early to use Sunday for preparing.
Despite the strike, the Finnair staff were very kind and professional. One employee checked our options and asked whether we only had hand luggage. We nodded… she said we could fly via Frankfurt, but we’d need to hurry as boarding had already begun. We nodded again, and she quickly printed our tickets and escorted us to the fast-track security check. We made it.
In Frankfurt, we had a two-hour layover to reach the terminal where the flight to Ljubljana was departing. With thorough security checks, we barely made the connection home. | 
virtual excursion
Eiranranta